It all started in the summer of 2015 with the return of a Costco Wavestorm I had lent to a family friend. The board was almost brand new when I bought it at a local thrift store for $20. Summer was winding down and we had guests coming in from Japan. I decided to hunt down our foamy and put it to use for some quick surf lessons. It had been MIA for well over 2 years and on it's return you could see that it did not sit idle. It lived violently. Holes, tears and gouges. It was certainly well used. Not much appreciated. Why should it be? It was a fucking Costco board!
My neighbor and surfing buddy Justin, saw the sad board and suggested I cut it down and make a twin-fin shortboard from it. He saw some dude riding one at San Onfre the day before (I eventually met that dude). I borrowed a saw and hacked it down to 64 inches with a modest moon tail. Drilled and moved the two fins up to their new spots and away I rode.
No shit. What a crazy fun board. I rode and rode. Fearless on foam you can drop in on anything. I was dumbfounded by how easy it was to surf, catch waves and have maximum fun on the bite-size summer waves. I rode this thing shamelessly for weeks until it was completely waterlogged. It opened my eyes to what a surfboard could be made to do. Why did this stump of a log paddle and plain so well? Was it the aspect ratio? Flat bottom? 160+ Liters? Short length? Wide width? How can I improved it's mobility and speed and make it slightly less horrid looking?I started doing some research on why this shape was so wonderful. I read Rusty Presendorfers article on surfboard aspect ratios who led me to the history of Bob Simmons and his boards (they're on display at the Surfing Heritage Museum in San Clemente) which led then me to Lindsay Lorde and his book on hydro dynamics (I read it!). It was an amazing coincidence because the whole mini Simmons movement was building (if not charging forward) and I had never heard, seen or ridden one. It was calling me. Eventually I found Hydrodynamica's Lord Board video from 2011 and my eyes were opened wide.
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